Nestled in the South Pacific, Pitcairn Island stands as the sole inhabited landmass in the world’s most secluded cluster of islands. These islands include Henderson, Ducie, and Oeno Islands, all of which fall under the jurisdiction of British Overseas Territories. Situated some 2,170 kilometres southeast of Tahiti, the entire chain is just about as remote a spot as you could imagine.
The 50 ageing inhabitants proudly trace their lineage back to the mutineers of the British ship HMS Bounty and their Polynesian companions who found sanctuary on these shores in 1790.
Distant from mainstream tourism, these legendary islands beckon adventurous souls, as they are only accessible via a challenging sea voyage from New Zealand aboard Pitcairn’s primary supply vessel, the MV Silver Supporter.
Pitcairn, a volcanic haven, boasts an extraordinary range of biodiversity, featuring unspoiled subtropical landscapes hosting a profusion of native flora and fauna, including a thriving marine ecosystem. Moreover, it occupies a central role within one of the world’s largest marine reserves, an expanse dwarfing the entire US state of Texas. The island’s status as an International Dark Sky Sanctuary ensures awe-inspiring views of the night sky.
Measuring a mere 3.2 kilometres in length and 1.6km in width, Adamstown, the island’s capital, is perched above Bounty Bay, accessible via a single road fittingly christened ‘the Hill of Difficulty.’ While tourism is gradually re-emerging on the island, the limited size naturally restricts available attractions.
The wreck of the HMS Bounty
The tale of the mutiny on the HMS Bounty is an iconic moment in maritime history. The story unfolded in April 1789 when Captain William Bligh lost control of his ship. The men of the HMS Bounty, dispatched from England in search of breadfruit two years earlier, grew weary of Bligh’s harsh leadership and yearned to return to Tahiti where they had been previously allowed to enjoy a few restful weeks with the islands local populace.
Eighteen mutineers overpowered the captain, threatened his life, and set him adrift in a small boat with 18 loyal men. This marked the beginning of an extraordinary saga of maritime endurance and survival as Bligh and his men, driven by a desire for retribution, navigated 3,618 nautical miles over 47 days to reach Timor and report the mutiny.
Meanwhile, the mutineers aimed to establish new lives on Tubuai, Tahiti, and Pitcairn Islands with their native wives. Fearing detection, they burned the Bounty in the waters surrounding Pitcairn, effectively marooning themselves on the island. However, their existence on Pitcairn was far from idyllic, marked by conflict, disease, suicide, and deadly confrontations. Eighteen years later, when the ship Topaz discovered Pitcairn and its inhabitants, only one mutineer remained alive.
In 1957, photographer and explorer Luis Marden made a remarkable find – the remains of the Bounty, still visible in shallow waters off Pitcairn’s shores, largely undisturbed for over a century. While some artefacts were retrieved, divers willing to brave the treacherous bay can still witness remaining remnants. Additionally, artefacts from the wreck are showcased at the community hall on Pitcairn.
Christian’s Cafe: A Quaint Social Hub
Christian’s Cafe, a charming café and bar, serves as the solitary social haven on the island. Historically, the island’s stringent moral laws necessitated a permit for the purchase or consumption of alcohol. Notably, Christian’s Cafe began freely serving alcohol only after 2009 when the island relaxed these prohibitions to promote tourism.
With the island now welcoming travellers on ten-day or three-day passes and even greeting guests from passing cruise ships, the establishment, a spacious, white-walled room, offers a splendid vista of Pitcairn’s lush tropical greenery, creating a tranquil setting for mingling with the locals.
Given the island’s limited population and scarce imports, the café’s operating hours are relatively brief, with doors opening only after 6:30 pm on Fridays. Nevertheless, for those fortunate enough to reach this remote destination, Christian’s Cafe remains the prime spot for socialising with the island’s historic residents.
