From cowboy boots to kitten heels, 2023 has been the year in which many classic shoe styles return to the runways. Now, a new horror has arisen from the realm of niche to become a mainstream surprise, and shock traditionalists the world over – the comically oversized shoe. This maximalist trend was initiated by creations like Bottega Veneta’s BV “puddle boot,” a chunky rubber rain boot with a bulbous toe that made its debut in 2020, and Kerwin Frost’s super-stuffed Adidas Superstars, a 2021 collaboration that transformed the classic Superstar sneaker into a clownishly large version.
The maximalist shoe trend gained momentum in February this year when the US label and art collective MSCHF introduced its attention-grabbing “big red boot.” These giant, pillarbox-red boots, crafted from TPU and EVA foam, appear to have sprung straight from the pages of a 1990s Japanese manga series, Astro Boy. They are simultaneously nostalgic, futuristic, and utterly absurd, as declared by MSCHF in its press release, “If you kick someone in these boots, they go boing!” Despite their silliness and occasional practical challenges – as evidenced in a viral TikTok video where a wearer gets stuck in their Big Red Boots – these unisex boots quickly found fans in celebrities like Doja Cat, Lil Nas X, Iggy Azalea, and Janelle Monáe.
Cartoon inspired shoes
Furthermore, the spring/summer 2023 collections introduced a more refined take on the cartoon-inspired shoe trend. Brands like Prada showcased proudly puffy nappa loafers, Loewe presented comic-inspired lacquered foam pumps reminiscent of Minnie Mouse’s oversized high heels, and Proenza Schouler offered pillowy Arc platform mules. This maximalist trend spans both men’s and women’s fashion, indicating its enduring appeal. In August, following in the footsteps of Balenciaga, MSCHF teamed up with Crocs to unveil the “big yellow boots” – a sunflower-yellow version of the Big Red Boots, featuring Crocs’ signature holes and heel strap. Meanwhile, Marni is set to release its “big foot 2.0” sneakers at Paris Fashion Week, offering a more exaggerated, comic-book-inspired take on the Italian house’s 2018 platform trainer.
So, what does our fascination with clunky, cartoonish footwear signify? Dr. Carolyn Mair, a cognitive psychologist, fashion business consultant, and author of “The Psychology of Fashion,” believes it communicates a desire for non-conformity and personal expression, aligning with contemporary values of individuality and self-confidence. It also challenges traditional beauty ideals in favor of unconventional aesthetics. Cultural historian Annebella Pollen draws parallels to the shoes designed by second-wave feminists in the 1970s and 1980s. These feminists rejected stiletto heels and pointy toes, creating their own foot-shaped styles that drew inspiration from men’s workwear boots, promoting both practicality and a statement of resistance.
Historical precedents
In terms of functionality, Caroline Stevenson, the program director of cultural and historical studies at the London College of Fashion, identifies historical precedents for oversized shoes with raised soles and protective padding. She mentions the “chopine,” an early version of the platform worn by Venetian noblewomen in the late 15th to early 17th century, which evolved from practicality to symbolizing social status. Stevenson also highlights the 1990s Spice Girls-style trainers like the platform Buffalo boots, which represented oppositional cultural politics and female empowerment.
The oversized, attention-grabbing aesthetics of today’s cartoon-style shoes are bound to make you stand out, projecting an adventurous and fun image. This aligns with the “clowncore” movement, an aesthetic inspired by circus themes and playfulness, which gained popularity on TikTok in 2020 and found its way into high fashion. It serves as a response to our current confusing times, offering an escape through fashion.
Whether these shoes evoke memories of clowns, cartoons, 90s pop culture, or childhood playfulness, there’s no denying that the current trend for large, whimsical shoes taps into a prevailing sense of nostalgia. As MSCHF stated, “Cartoonishness is an abstraction that frees us from the constraints of reality” – and in today’s world, that might be exactly what we need.
