Ghana’s coastal capital, Accra is a great place to discover the true soul of the country. Home to artists, studios and galleries, this vibrant city is also where entrepreneurs bustle through markets alongside club DJs, hustlers and pastors. An often ignored city, there is so much to do for those who are prepared to scratch the surface.
Immerse Yourself in Artists’ Studios
Embark on a tour of the artists’ studios in Labadi. The Noldor Artist Residency, nestled in a former pharmaceutical factory, boasts exhibition spaces across two floors and hosts resident artists. A short journey down La Road leads you to the Artists Alliance Gallery, a seaside villa owned by artist Ablade Glover. Here, you can explore the work of more traditional artists and shop for authentic Kente fabrics, intricately carved masks, and exquisite jewellery.
Dine at Buka
Ensure you secure a reservation at Buka during the early evening hours. Adorned with lush ferns and cascading wisteria, this restaurant offers an extra dose of tropical ambiance. Don’t miss the groundnut soup, a beloved tomato and peanut stew served with or without slow-cooked guinea fowl, or the grilled fish paired with fried sweet potatoes. While prices here may be slightly above average for Accra, you can still enjoy a satisfying dinner for a reasonable cost.
Explore Jamestown Harbour
Jamestown Harbour, the historic birthplace of the slave trade is a worthy stop for morning walk. As the sun rises witness fishing boats unloading an abundant catch of sardines. Guiding you through this journey into the past is Allotey Bruce-Konuah, a renowned designer and historian who offers private tours of Jamestown’s charming, faded pastel streets. These streets hold stories of 17th-century dungeons where prisoners were held before their harrowing journey into slavery. You’ll also encounter the neighbourhood’s famed boxing clubs adorned with murals celebrating historic champions.
Beachside Bliss
Arrive at the beachfront as the sun begins its descent. The Ghanaian Village Restaurant offers uninterrupted sea views, a well-stocked bar, and a menu featuring delectable curries and stews. Alternatively, join the vibrant crowd at the Sandbox Beach Club, an architectural marvel designed by renowned architect David Adjaye using earthy tiles, concrete, and indigenous wood. For a quieter option, Ozzie’s Beach Palace next door provides a serene escape. When it’s time to leave, you can easily call an Uber or flag down a taxi along La Road, with most rides costing no more than £2, although even Ubers may request cash payments.
Explore Osu’s Vibrant Scene
Venture into Osu, a central neighbourhood teeming with lively bars and trendy boutiques. Hidden down a nondescript alley is Asabea’s Kitchen, where a brightly painted patio welcomes you to savour delicious goat and tilapia stews with banku (corn-based dough) and fufu (cassava-based dough), alongside mashed cassava and plantain. For fashion enthusiasts, Elle Lokko, housed in a stucco house on Lokko Road, offers racks of attire by emerging designers. If your fashion hunt continues, make a stop at The Shop, where you can sip fresh mango juice while perusing batik shirts, embroidered cushions, and trinkets.
Appetisers and People-Watching
For some top-tier people-watching, grab a seat outside The Republic Bar & Grill in Osu. Treat yourself to a fried yam appetiser, complemented by a frozen cocktail or passion fruit caipirinha, all while enjoying an outstanding playlist that sets the scene buzzing with energy.
Discover Artisan Treasures
Take a leisurely stroll along the coastal road to the Centre for National Culture. Here, you’ll find a vibrant grid of artisan ateliers offering Kente-cloth dresses, beaded jewellery, sculptures, and woven baskets, all at affordable prices. At the far end of this cultural enclave, watch skilled drum-makers lay out goatskins to dry before stretching them over wooden bases. Nearby, schoolboys gather on the beach for a spirited game of football.
Experience the Nightlife
As the night unfolds, venture out into the town’s vibrant nightlife scene. The indoor-outdoor +233 Jazz Bar & Grill, named after Accra’s area code, features live jazz, funk, and soul performances on most nights. For a taste of the artistic elite, make your way to the members-only club Front/Back, often frequented by the glitterati on weekends. If these options don’t pan out, simply hail a taxi and head to Skybar 25 for a memorable evening.
